At least I'm sucking in this beautiful place........ thanks for letting me rant.
Life in a Hippy Van
- Leslie Timms
- Rock climbing and Leslie go together almost as good as peanut butter and chocolate. Both of which Im addicted to. Scaling cliffs is what makes me whole and I try to avoid real life as much as possible. I have a horrible memory, but some how I can always remember a crux sequence and a route name. I'm super lazy, but yet I will climb so hard that I can't move for days. I have a secret love for peeing outdoors and I feel weird wearing anything else other than climbing clothes. I'm going to push myself to my absolute limit in this radical sport until I'm completely crippled. I live in a small town in the heart of Ontario limestone and I'll be spending the summers enjoying the majestic climbing places and rivers close to home. Come winter, I will be migrating as far away from Canadian winters as I can; to wherever there is warmer weather and lots of rocks. I'm also currently studying to be a personal trainer and I guide rock climbing and paddling. This is my blog to keep people connected with me, rock climbing, Ontario, and my travels. Enjoy some of my thoughts!
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
We all suck sometimes....
At least I'm sucking in this beautiful place........ thanks for letting me rant.
Sunday, June 28, 2009
Piece by Piece
Work is steady, I'm finding a good groove, and getting plenty of hours. I love the variety of work I'm getting... one day I could be guiding a family sea kayaking and the next day I could be doing a one on one technique lesson with a new rock climbing enthusiast. However, work is definitely labour intensive: lifting boats and digging gardens plays a toll on your body. I have definitely come to grips with the fact that my climbing performance (and time) will have to suffer for the next couple of months. We have been brainstorming ideas about the fall and spring trips though.... we are thinking about keeping it in north america for a month and a half this fall and then Europe in the spring. And Oh Yes, the Red River Gorge is managing to call me back....White Mans Shuffle, Dracula, The Madness...... oh yes.
As for outdoors, I haven't been out much, weather has not been working in with my days off unfortunatly. However, I did get out once last week and if you can believe it, I was all motivated to lead a classic 5.11b gear line at TV Tower. It went silky smooth and I hiked it effortlessly (after figuring out my gear placements on rappel). Weird. Oh and Wild Orchid is still there and is still a bastard and I swear to the climbing gods that the day that weather coorperates and it isn't wet, I will destroy it.
We got out to a local crag yesterday and I tried a sweet route called Lucifer Effect and it is high on the awesome scale. I had a super good first go, falling on the last move of the crux. It proceeded to rain on me before I could get to the anchors. Boo. THen when I was pulling the rope, the hanger came right off the crux bolt with my draw still in it.... CRAZY!!! I whipped twice on that damn bolt.
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
A little bit a this, a little bit a that...
Sunday, May 31, 2009
She Climbs Clinics- August 1st and 22nd
PSYCHED!! I am super excited to have been given the opportunity to teach "She Climbs", womens climbing clinics this summer. I'm going to be working with another guide (Meg Mckerrol) who will be running the July clinics. The focus of my classes are going to be technique on different angles and also a look at different "tricks" to save you energy. I will also be focussing on how to improve the mental side of your climbing, which is a bigger part than most realize. Most importantly though, its going to be a lot of rock climbing and good times!I can only run it for a max of 8 ladies per day, so get your spots quickly and tell your friends! Clinics will be held at Metcalf Rock, for a full day of climbing.
Thanks to my number one supporter "Jtree Dave" for helping us out with this, check out his site at http://www.jtreelife.com/ and to the awesome folk at madrock www.madrockclimbing.com.
For more info and to register go to http://www.freespirit-tours.com/ or call 705-444-3622
Hope to see you out there!
Yeeah rock climbing!
Friday, May 29, 2009
Forget the grades
"The Pearl", a damn stout little V4 , Red Rocks NevadaI have been dying to find a project and start getting on some harder shit. So, I was a little disapointed the other day when everyone wanted to go to TV Tower, as there is nothing there harder than 5.12d. It is time to start upping the ante, but I accepted that it was going to be yet another mileage day, but atleast a great day with friends.
"Wild Orchid"is the classic at TV Tower. Its got it all: big moves, technical footwork, boulder problems and a serious pump. Now I had heard that it was significantly harder if you were short, but I had to sample this tasty classic and see. I fucking hammered the crux, like hammered it... I'm talking controlled feet cutting, leg swinging, fucking kung fu action. I wasn't as composed for the rest of it, but I held on (forever as usual). I wasn't rewarded with clipping the anchors and a solid 5.12+ flash to log on 8a, but instead I was rewarded with two back to back dynos to finish. I worked them out and I stuck one, I know I can stick the other too, its just a matter of going full out on the fly. I came down and realized that this route was every bit of 5.13a/b for me. Well thats perfect, now I have a project to obsess over, right? Wrong. For some stupid reason I don't care about it, because it is a "sandbag". Why is that? If someone called it a 5.13b, I would be driving out there right now to send it! Instead it is on my list of "routes to clean up after Ive done all the other routes at TV Tower". It is so weird. We all do it, instead of accepting the sandbaggedness (I definitely just made up that word) and enoy the route for what it is, we complain and move on to a different proj.
I'm seeing a trend here in Ontario, that grades are merely suggestions. I mean I know that they always are and that the guidebook isn't a bible. Here, I am talking 5.11's that are everybit of 5.12. Then you get on a 5.12a that is easier than the 5.10c beside it. It's awesome though, it is teaching me to appreciate a route for its movement rather than its ranking. Its features are so limited that it can create a casual sequence for a certain body type/size, and a heinous move for others. Obviously this isn't the case at all areas and all climbs, but it's always a suprise what the grade will be and it always keeps your ego in check. I find myself saying "You can do this, its a 5.11, its a 5.11, its a 5.11....." alot.
You know that feeling you get in your stomach, when you are a little nervous about a hard onsight or redpoint? I get that when I look up at these blank faces at Lions Head. It almost brings it back to basics, before everyone and their grandma was out on a number hunt. A local said " You dont see very many people ever onsight 5.12 here at Lions Head and there is a lot of strong guys". I try not to look too far ahead on a route or I have panic attacks due to the non-existent features/holds. I can't name how many times I just lock off a hold and feel around blindly until I find somthing I can weight, how sick is that?
Well right now I'm slowly chopping off the heads of my multiple headed ego dragon.... once I kill him, I will go project Wild Orchid and feel damn good about my 5.12c/d redpoint.
Friday, May 22, 2009
The Season Opener
We spent the first day at Whites Bluff and the second day at Lions Head. It was so nice to not get eaten alive, as we have had to bail the last few rock climbing attempts due to black flies. Old baldy, Metalfe and The Swamp are write off's right now, fucking miserable. We got the spray down on the crags from local Lion's Head hard man, Greg Williamson, and we cushed out pitches for 2 days with our new buddies Mike and Trevor. Greg is a legend......... so we hike out to Lions Head, epic on this sketch fest approach up to the Manitou Ledge and then by the time we did 3 pitches, it was like 6pm. Greg shows up after work and busts out 6 pitches in 15 minutes rope soloing and he was still going by the time we hiked back up to the top of the cliff to hike out. He's awesome to watch, he's got that system dialed. Up and down, up and down.
The climbing there is unlike anywhere I have ever climbed. It was the first time I'd been on anything harder than 5.11a there, and man we have so many new routes to do!!! The rock is really difficult to read, really hard to onsight. Balancy, technical, white faces. If you ever let yourself tunnel vision or rush a move, you're screwed. Its all about patience, and taking your time. I learned a lot climbing there for just one day and still so much to learn. Its funny though, once you find the beta in the sea of non-existent holds, the moves feel casual. Incredible rock climbing.
Cairn marking the White's Bluff trail and a view of the bay through the trees at the base of White Bluff
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Tour de Bloc Championships
So I myself have never been a competitor. I have no experience in this side of the sport, and it is much different than the road trippin rock climbing sport I have been a part of. Plastic, Crowds, spot lights, isolation, cameras..... crazyness! I get stressed if some assholes dog wont stop barking at the base of the crag, let alone 500 people watching and screaming at you. Crazy. What I can tell you though is that it looks fun as hell. Crazy holds, wild features, amazing problems, lots of amped up energy and motivation. I was inspired.
Tour de Bloc had a live stream on the net for the championships. AWESOME! So we were sitting in our house, drinking beers, watching the finals, cheering people on.... totally pulling some armchair climbing action. It was the closest we will ever get to climbing being on TV for a little while. SICK.
The competitors were solid and we were really proud of all of our friends who competed and did really well. The B-unit and Team Madrock kicked ass! You guys all inspired both Kyle and myself with your efforts. So much so, that maybe....just maybe.... I may consider getting out next season.... MAYBE haha.
Womens:
1.) Eva Pepin-Helie--> Yeeeah girl!! Never met her, but super well rounded little lady. She was crushing out some hard sport lines last fall too AND she didnt let the American steel the Canadian title. Way to represent! OH Canada, da da da dada........
2.) Sasha Digiulan--> The young American lady that coulda woulda but didnt steel it!
3.) Elise Sethna---> Look out for her....shes like 15 years old dude.
Mens:
1.) John Bowles--> Yeeah dude!
2.) Terry Paholek--> The commitment this guy gave on the last 3d problem was fucking entertaining. SICK
3.) Andre Defelice--> The crowd favourite. Has any body checked out this dudes 8a bouldering scorecared WTF???
Clean and Climb this Sunday!
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
Life in Clarksburg...
Friday, May 8, 2009
Its almost New River Rendezvous time!

Lucky 7
May 14-17
http://www.newriverrendezvous.com/
Juggling Act
We are both sniffing out some promising job leads, and keeping our fingers crossed that they work out. I am really excited about guiding a climbing clinic called "Sheclimb" that runs in August that I am going to instruct for Freespirit Tours. A really amazing lady named Jennie Elmsilie runs this company and runs caving, climbing, canoeing, hiking and even some winter trips too. She is full of life and if you know anyone who wants to explore some outdoor adventures in the Collingwood area check out her site at http://www.freespirit-tours.com/.
While looking for work, we are also plugging away at fixing up the house. We've been painting and stripping the nightmare wall paper, as well as plugging away at any of the other five billion things that are on our gigantic never ending list of things that need to get done.
Aside from that, we are taking a little bit of some down time from climbing. It is hard to put the focus on that when life is so crazy. Besides, I've already made the cover of Gripped, so I might as well just quit climbing now. hahaha. I must say though, the little bit of climbing we have done, has been friggin' rad and we haven't even been to Lions Head yet. Yeaaah sweet rock climbs!!
Our new home iz the shizzzzzz. It is nice and cozy and we are lovin' the location. It is like we are smack dab in the middle of it all, but we get that country bumpkin feel. We are 10-20 minutes from hundreds of sport routes, miles of mountain bike trails, ski trails, a beautiful little whitewater river, Georgian Bay and the city (Collingwood). Its perfect really. The folk around here are super chill, and down to earth too. Almost too good to be true really.
I was just reminissing on our last night in the Red. Boo hoo. Shit too much fun. I miss those guys.
Heres some late but good pic's of our "going away party". Some how we all managed to look a lot more sober then we were.
---Look at the cute Canadian cupcakes they gave us! aaaaw....little Dunbar....your too sweet.
---Team Awesome. Nuf said.
---My little ladies!
---These two are up to NO good.
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Hippy Van Retirement
Our month in the Red was too much fun, but definitely a little different then past trips. With the stresses of our new home and feeling a little run down from the road, we had a hard time focussing on just climbing. I think we’ve both been very ready to move on from our life on the road for a few weeks now. This is not to say that we won’t be busting out some sweet climbing trips, but we will at least have a home to come back to now!
Over the last couple years, the world class rock climbing in the Red has been secondary to all the rad people we’ve come to know in the southeast. Our Red River Gorge posse is a crew of legendary characters to whom we’ve grown to love and we will miss those guys so much. “Salt of the earth folk” as my mom would say.
They threw us a big going away party on our last night. BBQ, music and lots of laughs in front of the hippy van, where the weekend parties in the Red started and where they’ve now finished. I’m so lucky to have met such incredible friends! I LOVE YOU GUYS!!! I will definitely post some pics, when I get them.
Anyone wanna buy a hippy van? I guess I will have to change the name of my blog now… how about, “Life as a completely obsessed rock climber that doesn’t want to work but somehow wants to have a lot of money, a nice house, travel all over the world, eat good food, drink nice wine and rock climb full time.” I think it has a nice ring to it. What do you think?
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
April 25, 2009- OAC Earth Day Clean Up

Friday, April 17, 2009
BIGA Beats
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Thursday, April 9, 2009
Paradise was lost in controversy

Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Road Trip Recovery



Friday, April 3, 2009
Funny Shit...
http://www.mistymurphy.blogspot.com/
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Worth the Wait
White Mans Overbite is a proud standing line that works up a prow that resembles a man’s face. Although it is 80 feet long, it climbs much differently than your typical Red River Gorge endurance route. It is pretty much only 4 bolts of 8a+, and it is so sustained and bouldery that you can only stop to clip 2 of the 4 draws in the crux. It has incredible movement on sloping crimps, and its exposure and spice make it an absolute classic.
The moves came together quite easily for me with a month of crimpy limestone under my belt. It was just a matter of keeping a strong mind and trying really hard. As we’ve sat in a cloud of rain for 2 weeks and pulling a lat on a warm up, I had lots of time to obsess and obsess and obsess. Then the clouds opened up, the sun peeked through, and I popped enough advil for one good attempt on this perfect day :o) It was one of those climbing days I will never forget. The sun was shining, spring waterfalls were running over the caves, good friends were watching and cheering and a beautiful proud rock climb that in that moment came together perfectly.
It was worth the wait, for that day and that moment when I latched the jug….barely. It was such a "barely" that everyone had already sighed and gone quiet. I swear I was campussing the air, infact I think that the wind blew at a perfect time to boost me back onto the jug.
Sunday, March 29, 2009
Gear Review: The perfect all purpose Harness


